Tuesday, October 13, 2020

Women who service the King

 Why should a woman want to "service" a gentleman?

     

Why should women want to "service" the King? Already, there is a disparity of equality. It was said that the King's many women, brought from around Hangzhou, from the city and the farms, "wanted to please." The emphasis is on this "willingness," in the telling of the story. But in reality, they were probably given little choice in the matter. And the average man, at this time, has one wife and is relatively poor. He works from sunup to sunset. King Fanfur, however, had ample time for the “erotic”!

From Marco Polo’s Description of the World, “…and he made the said [damsels] run with dogs and he gave chase these kinds of animals; and "played with his courtesans in the woods," which faced one another above the said lakes.  Leaving their clothes there, they "came out of [the woods] naked, and entered into the water and set themselves to swim, some on one side and some on the other, and he (the King) stayed to watch them with the greatest delight; and then (they) went back home.”[i]

Where was all this on the map?

Where was this? If you go to the 2005 Beijing report Number 9 or the posting here, you will see “4a.” In general, these are the “hills which face one another,” that Marco Polo described.  Within those hills is area "4," which is speculated to have had porticoes on a covered walkway. The actual quarters of the "1,000 women," would have been on two sides of the covered walkway. (Choose the first slide. Make sure that it is larger by clicking on it.)

If we allow an India connection, in mythology the Indian god, Krishna, as an adolescent, was interested in pranks. He called upon the “Cowgirls” to go swimming with him. They disrobed. He sat in a tree and watched them. Not so unlike King Fanfur's diversions!

The Grumpy Sweeper

 

The Grumpy Sweeper's Special Route

The Grumpy Sweeper


I met the aforementioned sweeper on one of my hikes to the 18 Lohans. He was, well, a sweeper of roads, but he was incredibly knowledgeable about local hiking, too! I’d also met a Chinese band of hiking fellows, about 45-50 of them, and they were a great group. This sweeper seemed rather put out - grouchy, even - for what reasons I dared not guess, nor ask. But to my surprise, he made a proposal. He would lead some of us on a hike to the 18 Lohans area. So that we did.

 

His grumpy disposition continued over the first half of the hike: “We didn't know how our country's hikes would come out," he grumbled. "We didn’t know what we were doing, etc., etc.” But he successfully delivered us to the 18 Lohans. Hoping to buck up our crusty leader, but not sure what would, I told him, “Good job!”

 

What he did then was strange and not intuitively obvious. He headed into the forest, on a path I hadn’t seen, in the opposite direction! Off he went, and not wanting to lose sight of him, I headed into the forest after him. A few other Chinese came with us.

 

The path was a bit narrow. And unmarked. But we followed it. It was uphill quite a bit, then  downhill... where was he taking us? The trail undulated, going over ridges, until, somewhat to our surprise, the band of us arrived safely at the village. A great finale, filled with suspense! And a change had come over the sweeper - his mood had lifted! Was it because he had been able to share that "secret leg" of the hike with us?  Was it hearing, "good job" ? Only the forest knows the answer.


Check the Google Earth for location.

Monday, October 12, 2020

The Beijing Archaeological Survey

 The Beijing Archaeological Survey

 

In 2004 Krista and I interviewed a woman, very animated, who talked about Beijing's archaeological survey against the backdrop of the survey itself! As she spoke, couple of men were working on a piece of road, just a short distance behind her. They were the Beijing archaeological team! I intersected with them several times - I, with my Moule map, and they with their Sung wall excavation! 


Now we are due back along Songcheng Road. On my last visit, I photographed many houses alongside this section of road  but I can’t find them now. As I ponder this, my stomach growling, I realize it's time to get back for the dinner at Beijing!

 

Click here to go to the Beijing Archaeological Survey. 


West Lake "Fishback"

 

I love Chinese food!  On the way back to dinner, I began to remember my first China trip in 1991. I was in Hangzhou with Professor Ho. He was giving me background on every place, and dish, that were tops for tasty eats. He reserved highest marks for "Westlake Fish." This led to a delicious flashback - my first experience eating Westlake Fish.


West Lake fish is like poetry. You take one bite. First you taste one element, “reeds in water,” next you feel, “vinegar,” still in a watery landscape (all this requires some moments), and then comes the flavor of “the fish”! 

Such poetry!

 

Ok, enough about my "fishback!"

 

The Location of the Palance now; Mushrooms!

 The Palace, alongside a Farmer's Market

 

The “Da Nei” (the “big inside,” or Palace interior over 700 years ago), was in fact right on the same street where a farmer’s market is now. You can check it. On the map it is "2." Check it here.

 

A Tunnel of... Mushrooms?

 

We head down Songcheng Road. It’s downhill all the way! There is a rise on the left, and a roadmark telling us it's about mile to the next location. The roadmark is a tunnel in the cliff. What kind of tunnel? (It is located at "10" on the map.)

The area is forested. As we come upon the tunnel, the forest clears to reveal a road in the distance. The first time I photographed this chamber it was silent and empty. The next time, about a year later, the tunnel was full of mushrooms with at least one attendant! It was marked “wholesale,” and the attendant was as amazed to see me as his customer, as I was to find him!   But today, the tunnel is once again silent and empty.  Maybe the wholesale business hasn’t held up, or he has found a better location than a tunnel at the edge of a forest. Any number of other possible reasons come to mind! 


Check here for the mushroom video of 2004.

 

We've reached the upper part of Songcheng Road. Here the road meets the trail and it’s where Beijing has done their archaeological survey of the old Palace's city walls.

The 18 Lohans

 

The Buddha?

The Eighteen Lohans

 

The next “scenic area” contains the Eighteen Lohans. They are on a bluff facing passerby. There are old ones, young ones - each of the eighteen are different. In Chinese mythology, each serves a different function.

 

The Hsi Lai Temple in Hacienda Heights, CA, currently has a visage of the eighteen Lohans. In it they are meant to be different, wildly different. There is a spindly man, a fat man and someone who is very severe, and so on. You find that on Phoenix Hill as well.

 

The Three Buddhas Grotto

 

At this juncture, we can turn about to head down what will become Songcheng Road to town, or we can go uphill to see the “Three Buddhas Grotto.” A “Sweeper” I met mentioned yet another way back to the city from here, but the three buddhas are beckoning! 

 

We head uphill to the “Three Buddhas Grotto."  It’s not far, but alas! No Buddhas are in it!  Robbers have taken all three!

 

The Palace – NOT!

 

Now a slight turn downhill - almost to the house where the two women live. But not quite. Just before reaching the house, look down the cliff. There, fifty feet down, is where I first thought the Palace used to be! Further research revealed that this area was too remote to be the right site.  The Palace was large and commodious, and sat inside the area where "the hills face each other." On this early hike, I hadn't yet discovered that area.  So if something WAS here, it wasn't the Palace!


Consider going to our slide collection and also to our video selection.

The Ciyuin Buddhist Temple

 

The Ciyuin

Ciyuin Buddhist Temple (Cloud-Resting Buddhist Temple) 

 

The path through the trees takes us to the Ciyuin Temple. This Buddhist temple feels "out in the wilds" but we're only a ten minute walk from Hangzhou. A very long, yellow wall borders the grounds around the temple. Once you go in, the temple area itself is considerably smaller. The censor, which is large and impressive, is in the center. There are benches about, placed on the four sides of the rectangular courtyard.


And it was here I heard a story about a Buddhist monk. It was told to me by one of the Chinese women on the tour I took here in 2002, one of three I took with Cal Poly Pomona.

 

The monk worked at the seminary for some years, right at the beginning of the Cultural Revolution. When it happened, the monks at the Ciyuin temple became restive, and gradually this monk was “tipped over” into joining the cause of the Cultural Revolutionaries! 


And there he existed, for a while.  But he was regretful, and this, over time, caused him to go back to the Ciyuin. He was interviewed by the Abbot of the Ciyuin. He made such a case, wanting to return to temple life, that all there welcomed him back! The Cultural Revolution was 1966-1976. He stayed well into the Ciyuin’s future after the Cultural Revolution.

 

I photographed the Ciyuin long after. One image, “End of the Road,” is a pillar at the end of a long wall, showing a left turn into “nowhere.”

 

The Ciyuin's endurance, through the Cultural Revolution especially, makes it seem to me a precious and unlikely treasure. I was moved to donate 50 yuan to the monastery, and I interviewed the Abbot in 2004.

 

Toward the Moonrock

 

Departing the Ciyuin, we make our way "left" on the path, leading to more new territory. Everyone is so free to wander the whole area. I wonder at first if anyone would object to my presence, given my GPS unit. But the area is without heightened precautions.

 

About a mile upward in the forest is the “Moonrock.” This is the occasion for the Great Moon-viewing, on the eighth month, fifteenth day. This tradition  began as a moon-viewing event for the primary court: the King and Queen of the Sung, (long before Marco Polo in 1296) and the maidens – 1,000 of them, dedicated to servicing the King.

 

The House Where Two Women Live

 

If we continue up and then down the path, it will gradually become more formal, with steps and a concrete path. It's then that we'll see "the house where the two women live." It's different from the dwellings where we began our hike - recently built, with "above average" construction. We descend a long line of steps, then proceed past the house (the path passes very close to it!). The path takes us along “contour” lines which are parallel and uphill. Off on the right is a bluff, but pass it by.


Here a video of of the Ciyuin Buddhist Temple made in 2004.

Thursday, October 8, 2020

Going to Bejing!

 


Going to Beijing

 

I’m back in Beijing! It is September 5, 2005. I’ve come over from the States. My journey's been tiresome but it’s almost over. Once again I see the grand view of the airport as the plane lands, then the guy waiting for me after customs. And the busy blur in the parking lot. Hallelujah, I’m here!

 

Why my return to Beijing? Officially, to deliver a report on my hike through what had once been the Last Palace of the Southern Sung, near the old downtown of Hangzhou. Personally, to see if I could separate historical fact from (albeit delightful) historical fantasy.


The next morning, I take off to toward the “Temple of Heaven," exploring that area of the city. All car-parts and motorcycles, but one path leads inwards and I see an old woman there, under an awning.  Phoenix Hill beckons me.  I continue up the path, remembering the previous year's adventures and wondering what new ones await.

 

Marco Polo’s destination in the 13th Century

 

At that time in history, as the story goes, one thousand women were in the service of the Sung King. Ten thousand (other) persons, “…chief lords, great masters, and rich artificers” also numbered among the King's visitors. The guests dressed in “silk and gold” because each “did his utmost to go with the greatest of wealth in his power.”  The King would invite people to visit for twelve days, and see to it they were very well entertained.

 

The Palace dimensions were known since Marco Polo


For 700 years the old Sung Palace had been deserted since Marco Polo visited there for an interview with King Fanfur.  Why was I searching for something so long buried?  Because the hiking terrain of Hangzhou was known since Marco Polo.  And that terrain, which I had hiked, had supposedly contained the old Sung Palace! Amazing to think that this terrain had remained essentially unchanged in all that time. I wondered how much longer that would remain the case, especially considering the frenetic construction taking place in Hangzhou during recent years.  

 

In 2002 or so, I had discovered a map of that area, authored by A.C. Moule, which included written notes - a guidebook to the map, if you will.  Then a colleague gifted me a Topo model of Hangzhou. This was a 3D rendering of the “up-and-down,” hilly portion of the area.  And I was already a big-time GPS mapping geek.  So I had what I needed in order to hike Phoenix Hill, a key Palace area. 

I could walk it with GPS, then try to reconcile all three: My independent "on-foot" GPS map, the topo model, and the Moule map!  Fun! 


It didn't seem as though anyone had mapped the Palace area, on foot, in recent times. Old neighborhoods in the area were being torn down at a rapid pace to make way for modern construction. One such neighborhood bordered Phoenix Hill, where the old Palace had once sat.  Was it just a matter of time before Phoenix Hill and the old Palace foundations were bulldozed too?   


The possibility that such a historic site might fall to "development" didn't sit well with me. Maybe this could be more than a recreational mapping adventure.

If I was able to complete this project and present my findings to the right people,  it might stir interest in conserving the site, or at least inspire further investigations.

The Beijing North China University of Technology Project, as I dubbed it, was born. 


On Foot with A.C. Moule


I like to take you on one of my first hikes in Hangzhou. The author of my map, A.C. Moule, said in a footnote that until 1936, the foundation stone of the Palace was right at Fantian Road. So it’s at Fantian that we will start on our first hike!


We start by taking a cab ride from the hotel, down Wansong Road - all the way to Fantian Road.  The street retreats up a ways. There are houses on each side. They are very simple, but incredible to me - because the residents, as it happens, know their dwellings are in the old Palace area.

 

Last Chance for an Orange Soda

 

Two long blocks along Fantian get us to the Palace foundation border, which is filled largely with trees. At the last minute, before going up the hill, we come across a street vendor selling cold drinks. Amid the local offerings, I spot an orange soda! The gentleman pulls it out of the machine and hands it to me. Thus provisioned, I’m ready for the trees and bushes. Upwards on the path and into them!

 

Hiking Hangzhou's Phoenix Hill

 The Trails that Led to Beijing: Hiking Adventures on Hangzhou's Phoenix Hill

by

James Manley


Phoenix Hall via Google Maps
 

The Palace on Phoenix Hill, in Hangzhou, has lain fallow for 700 years - since the time of Marco Polo, when the last Sung King was defeated by Genghis Khan. Cultural taboo has mostly prevented the building of houses on the old palace grounds. Hiking and gambling there, however, appear to be perfectly ok, and on most days, these pleasant pastimes can be seen happening within the palace wall's historic footprint. Mao Tse Tung knew of the old Palace, too, and took steps to make his presence felt there. In 1949, he placed a military medical facility on one edge of the old Palace grounds, which remained until at least 2005. 

How will the languishing of the Palace be met by future Presidents and Party Secretaries? What about the throwing out of the "old"? The Chinese have done this with the canals in Hangzhou - building very nice houses along them, and leaving the older houses in ruins.  So will the "old" Palace grounds meet the same fate? 

I don't think so. I've checked recently, and there doesn't appear to be any current plans related to the Palace. But in the long term I speculate there will be a resurgence of historic interest in the Palace. The Beijing Archaeological Survey is active in the area - this hints that a project could be in the works. And one could imagine a very impressive, very Chinese, historical replica of the Palace there in the future.

I am fascinated by the Palace's past and its possible future. So much so, in fact, that I was inspired to share my findings with anyone who'd listen - including a presentation to members of Beijing's North China University of Technology in 2005, and another talk at Cal Poly Pomona upon my return. 

What follows are snippets of some favorite encounters I had on this quest, on and around Phoenix Hill, circa 2001-2005.  I hope you'll be "swept" into it, too!

Tuesday, October 6, 2020

Orientations: Getting Comfortable With Maps


 We start out with this China view.



Now we zero in on Hangzhou.


Even closer. We see West Lake in the upper left.

Here we see the hiking routes



Here we see the hiking routes on Google Earth.

Thursday, September 24, 2020

The Ciyuin Buddhist Temple


 The Ciyuin (cloud resting temple) is a silent documentary. I kept it as such because too much complication spoils things, including textual conversation. Here I would invite the people to look at the candles, the censure, the various preying postures at hand.


Ciyuin is at "11." Beijing Archeological is at "10." The "Manley" one roughly at "9." 

Tuesday, September 22, 2020

The 18 Lohans (Again)


 Here is a video tour of the 18 Lohans from out 2004 trip.

The Mushroom Tunnel


 The mushroom tunnel was important because first we though it a feature of the Palace. But it was not. The Palace was on the other side of Phoenix Hill. And it didn't persist. The next year it wasn't here. There is a buzzer which goes off about midway through. Nancy is surprised!


I want to record the places on the Blog. This one is roughly in the same place as the Beijing Archaeological Survey mentioned in the previous Blog. 

Sunday, September 20, 2020

The Beijing Archeological Survey Makes an Appearance


 Here we are looking for the Beijing Archeological Survey. But first, we had just seen mushrooms so we asked about that.


"10" locates this on the map.

Here are the four who were the Beijing Archaeological Survey. They were young, just out to do roads. 


Saturday, September 19, 2020

Looking for the West Gate


Looking for the West Gate, I find myself reflective!


It is located by the West Gate by "9." When we were at the kiln, we headed up the hill, so it is possible that it is on the other side of the hill. 

 

Saturday, September 12, 2020

Slides Which Complete the Picture


On the red line we have "2" which is the King and Queen's living quarters, "4," the 1,000 women "in service to the King," and "4a" which is the "woods which face one another," about what the King did there.

We also have "8," which is off Fantian, which is a "marker."  

We have also in this slide the hike Fantian to the 18 Lohan and return via Songcheng Road in the village. 

Here we have the Fantian-Songcheng Road hike with the left side going up and the right side coming down Songcheng Road.


This slide is the same as the one above, but the GPS is different. The hike is from the "sweeper."









This is the "marker" for the Fantian-Songcheng hike. It corresponds with "8."


Wednesday, July 29, 2020

The ArcView Slides

These are a different breed of slides. They show the Palace by "points" rather than by "tracks."

Take a look at the points between right center all the way up to left central center. These are the points, just in inside the wall, where the 1,000 women were.






These do "tracks" also. The track at the top is a part of "hills which face each other," where the king would go with his favorites from the 1,000 women.


Below is the route we took following the Chinese Medical Facility. It is "heart-shaped" over by the large structure.

These can be large, click them!




Sunday, July 19, 2020

The Day of Beijing (2005)

Here we have "Head Honchos" ready for the dinner.












My table...











Temple of Heaven (an early memory of my arrival)









Our Vice President, Thomas Morales














The first couple of days sightseeing











A Fellow Beijinger

Wednesday, July 15, 2020

The Beijing Archaeological Survey


If you hover over the "Play" button and hit the right button, you'll get a set of four options. Go to the top option and click on it. This will extend the play function so that it will "loop" through the play feature. In other words it will go on and on, rather than just one time through!

Look for the darkest line on the map. This traces the Sung Palace Wall 700 years ago. 

It was done in 2011 but they don't have the Moule map!


This is map with the Beijing Survey and the Moule map draped over it - plus the elevation map.


Here is a 3D map, again of the Beijing Survey. Have your red-blue glasses ready!

Thursday, July 9, 2020

The 18 Lohans

Here we come in our walk to the eighteen Lohans. These were the followers of the Buddha, each with an individual personality.  This particular person could have been the Buddha!










This regal fellow is another Lohan, but he has an individual personality.













 These not-so-regal individuals are two more Lohans.










This individual is a Lohan, but remember we don't have all eighteen!













Here we have an old man. He is very regal!

Sunday, June 21, 2020

Some Rotations: Three Views


Here is a general view, with the Moule Map and the topographics inlay. This is from 2005 - 2010. You'll want to click the left button over the 'Play" bottom and choose the "Loop" at the top. Also, you can start and stop with the Play/Pause.

Saturday, June 20, 2020

Google Earth and the "Palace"


Here are some Google Earth Slides. They have two things overlaid on Google Earth. The Moule slide and the results of my hiking.






Here there is only one slide added. My hikes in the area of the Kiln.









There are two slides added. The Moule map and my hikes.









There is rectification. The hiking trails show an independent vantage.

Wednesday, June 10, 2020

Pictures! The Medical Facility at "The Palace"


Here are Krista and Xin Wang, colleague of the person who found the
3Dem, filming on the Palace site.












Here is the Palace on the North Side of the "Medical Facility." They have thrown stuff over the wall!













This is an "up close" view. Are these "Medical" or what? Krista says, "Candy Wrappers."













Here is the first picture of the "Medical Facility."










And the second picture...











And the third picture. It's a very long building!










Here is the fourth a and final picture.

Wednesday, June 3, 2020

Fantian and Songcheng as Ways to the Palace


"Ways to the Palace" is really misplaced! What the people did was to occupy a space that Palace left.

Here they occupied "Songcheng" Road. (See the tiny "Songcheng" in the bottom of the valley.)








Here we have a special view of "Hills which face each other." That valley is indicated by the blue arrow.

On the right, is a path which goes along to the lake, again in blue.









Here is a view which goes along Wansong Road, down to the lake. (West Lake is not show on the map. It would be towards to front of this map.)













This goes along Songcheng Road.
This is Fantian Road, leading to the Fantian Temple. Is is parallel to Songcheng Road.
 Here the two roads are parallel.













What Would Marco Polo Have Seen at the Sung Palace? [Reproduced June 2, 2020]


WHAT MARCO POLO MIGHT HAVE SEEN AT THE ROYAL PAVILIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SUNG ON PHOENIX HILL IN THE 13TH CENTURY – A VISUALIZATION



James C. Manley, Ph.D.

California State Polytechnic University, Pomona, California, USA

Email: jcmanleyy@gmail.com; Web: http://www.cpp.edu/~jcmanley


ABSTRACT

Modern GPS and GIS techniques make it possible to visualize the sites of the major pavilions of the Southern Sung Dynasty. Using both western and Chinese sources, the author has created a plausible visualization of what a visitor in the 13th century may have seen as he approached the location of main palace of the Southern Sung near Phoenix Hill. This visualization is based on A.C. Moule’s 1958 publication Quinsai together with a high-quality, digital topographic map provided by Zhejiang University. The visualization software used by the author will be described, together with an invitation to explore possible lines of collaborative work with Chinese faculty in GIS, archaeology, and architecture, aesthetics and “virtual museums.”  The presentation will include the present state of project, including images and data.

BODY

It is a pleasure to join you in this conference. In the time that I have I would like to update my findings from last year, which have not been reported on, and sketch out my plans for the future, which hopefully can involve collaboration with NCUT and other Chinese institutions.

As a philosophy professor interested in GPS and GIS a few introductory words may be in order. My graduate work was done in the area of aesthetics and for many years I have been interested in museums and museum aesthetics. With the advent of the internet, the possibilities for virtual museums and online visualization have grown enormously. I have also done a substantial amount of overseas-type teaching. While in China in the year 2000, I found a candidate for a virtual museum display.

From a discrepancy on a tourist map of Hangzhou, I found myself in a project to locate the foundations of the main palace, or “Da Nei,” occupied by the last emperors of the Southern Sung Dynasty on Phoenix Hill in Hangzhou. The idea was to create a virtual Sung world that could be visited, as it were, like a museum. This visualization could be rendered more specific and concrete over the years with linked collaborations with interested parties and institutions.

I’ve been back to China each summer since then to walk the paths on Phoenix Hill that almost certainly represent paths dating back to the Sung and earlier. In this endeavor I’ve been able to rely on a particularly interesting modern map of the Phoenix Hill area provided by A.C. Moule in Quinsai[1], first published in 1957. The second resource is a wonderfully precise digital topographic map of the area provided by colleagues[2] at Zhejiang University. (The red layer actually indicates green vegetation.)

These two resources have made it possible to do virtual computer walks on Phoenix Hill and then duplicate the walks on the actual Phoenix Hill. This provides an extraordinary sense of how the description of early events may “fit” with the existing terrain. We are or course all fortunate that the Phoenix Hill area is protected and has not been developed in the seven hundred years since the palaces of the Southern Sung fell into ruins.


Moule’s Quinsai is referenced in the much better known work on Sung life and culture by Jacques Gerent in his  Daily Life in China on the eve of the Mongol Invasion[3], which first appeared in 1959. Gernet provides a map “after the reconstruction by A.C. Moule” at the beginning of his text. (Figure 1)


 Figures 1 and 2: (Combined)

The Moule text is much less easy to obtain than Gernet’s, but very much worth the effort. His map, which is a western projection, is more detailed and is “camera-ready,” as it were, to be superimposed over a digital elevation map. Unfortunately, the Moule map is unknown in Hangzhou.

When I interviewed the Director, Shao Qun[4], of the Hangzhou Antiquities Office in 2004, she said this map was not in the archives there, nor any other maps done by foreign scholars, but that Beijing University was currently undertaking a survey of the protected area.  There clearly have been discontinuities in the historical record during the time of Mao, but the city of Hangzhou is moving aggressively to reclaim the history of its rich cultural heritage.

In the meantime, there is an opportunity to make some conjectures which were impossible before about the terrain a visitor may have seen in the 13th century. A central question is, “Where are the foundations of the “Da Nei?” The Da Nei was the central palace of the emperor in Sung times and would have been the place where a distinguished visitor might have an audience.

Once the Moule map is superimposed over the digital elevation model and rectified[5] with respect to landmarks such as the Su Causeway, the tip of the Lei Fung Peninsula and the center of the Alter of Heaven, the palace falls quite clearly in the city near what is now named Sung Cheng Road. Figure 3 shows the Moule map “draped” in 3Dem over the Zhejiang model.[6] For display purposes, I’ve chosen a black outline over a white background.

It is always a challenge to select the most viewable slide, especially within the constraints of this paper. Nevertheless, Figure 3 is a 3D visualization of the Moule map showing the outlines of the Da Nei. Figure 3 looks to the north; Figure 4 to the West. The map fits the territory like a glove, showing especially the route of Wansongling Road through the pass (Fig. 4, far right, dotted line).


 Figures 3:  Overlay Palace Area; 


Figure 4: The Dai Nei

With conscientious rectification, what is dependable in one part of the map will permit a dependable extrapolation to unknown areas. The rough rectification using these large and obvious features defined the area of the Palace. In turn, walking through the palace area can permit further rectification with respect to other geographical features, in particular, valleys and entrances to valleys, as we shall see below.  Figure 4 is an overlay of GPS tracks of my walk in the vicinity of the palace in 2003.

Figure 5 also shows the current best estimate of the coordinates of the Palace corners7] and GPS tracks in the area.  Figure 6 shows a more distant view from the vicinity of the East Gate. This would be the view a visitor would have in the 13th century and would have been the view that Marco Polo might have seen as he approached the palace. It is also the view with which one expert, Lu Jun[8], concurred as showing the likely location of the palace.



Figures 5 : Best Estimate  


East Gate View  (Changed from Beijing, 6/2/2020 - Adding The  Red Hiking Line)

The Palace rests under Phoenix Hill from this view, “like a calligrapher’s table.”  With repeated visits, I am confident that the visualization is consistent with Moule’s intent in the placement of the Palace. The northern part is located in an area called now the “Chinese Medicine Factory.” It is said that Mao ordered the factory built on these foundations when he entered Hangzhou in 1949. Shao Qun said that permission has now been secured to survey this area, which to this point has been off limits to archaeologists. In Moule’s reconstruction, there is a road through the Palace which turns north to connect on the right to North Gate and on the left to Wansongling and West Lake.

Although the 2000 Tourist map showed the Palace of the Southern Sung far to the west, there is consensus among locals that the palace was in the area noted. The question is precisely where. Many local citizens will tell you that it is in the area of the “Chinese Medicine Factory.” This facility is in several parts and extends to the south where Moule placed the two southern gates of the palace wall. In Figure five, one can see red tracks running east to west across the Da Nei. These tracks are from a walk along a street bisecting the current placement of the Da Nei. It is my surmise that this street is located along the path that in the 13th century would have moved through the palace area to intersect with the North Road. Today it is the site of a colorful and active farmer’s market on weekend mornings.

There are geographical features that support this. In the protected area there are paths which lead away from the east side of the Da Nei in natural ways: to the area of the north gate on the east and Wansong Pass to the west. A path leads up the valley to the newly-reconstructed kiln area near the West Gate. What the visitor here discovers is that many of Moule’s places are acknowledged in present-day Hangzhou. A modern gate is placed precisely where Moule’s map would indicate, though without signage.  Although not noted on Moule’s map, Gernet notes the presence of a kiln in the vicinity of imperial palace[9].

Not all of the paths noted on Moule’s map have left modern vestiges. The southern portion of the road on the Da Nei’s west side is lost in a ravine or would be on the east side of large wall that is a part of the medicine factory.




Figures 7 : “Whose woods face one another” - Valley


Figure 8:  Detail

But other geographic features are striking. It is said in Marco Polo’s Travels that the king would often sport with his concubines and that “... after they tired they went into these woods which faced one another....”[10] The sides of the valley leading to West Gate and the kiln are more even than those of the valleys on either side. The inference is inviting that this is the valley “whose woods faced each other”, i.e., the valley of the emperor’s pleasure garden. [Figures 7 and 8]. No pools are currently here, but the topography would imply that there could well be a cascade of small pools placed on this terrain [Figure 8]. Notice that the red GPS tracks closely follow the contours of the terrain. This is an additional cross-check on the rectification of the model.

What did Marco Polo see? Did he even visit Hangzhou? Without entering the debate directly, I do want to acknowledge works such as Frances Wood’s Did Marco Polo Go to China?[11] On the other hand, I’m struck by how geographical features seem to confirm aspects of his narrative. He would most likely have entered from the East Gate of the palace wall, situated on a hill overlooking the palace, now occupied by a radio/transmitting station (point 1) of Figure 9. He might have proceeded as described in Travels[12] through the Da Nei. He would then have seen the paths which continued on to West Lake [Figure : points 4, 5, and 6]


Figures 9 : From East Gate to West Lake 


Figure 10: Through Wansong Pass 

The route is different today. In Figure 10 one can follow the red GPS track through Wansong Pass from the Palace area to West Lake in the distance. According to Moule, in Sung times, the approach would been over the left ridge of the woods which “face each other and then up over the right ridge and then through the pass. The reason for this “up and down” route may well have been flooding in those times along the lower modern route.

CONCLUSION

While the temptations are very great to delve even more deeply into these non-philosophical areas, the author’s main interest is in visualization and a virtual museum of the Phoenix Hill area. Shao Qun of the Hangzhou Antiquities Office said that the first priority for Phoenix Hill was preservation, followed by a survey, followed by education. She said Beijing University was currently doing a survey of the archaeological legacy and will undoubtedly the final arbiter in China on the location of the palace. But the possibilities are very great through open architecture visualization programs such as VTP[13] and others to create a rich virtual world with geo-referenced terrain, populated with appropriate vegetation, CAD-designed buildings, and a variety of historical and other annotations, hidden and manifest, available to “curate” the exhibit.[14]

There are additional recent Chinese texts on Sung architecture and on the hills of Hangzhou, including Phoenix Hill.[15]

In taking the next steps in this project I would like to work cooperatively with Chinese institutions, including the Hangzhou Antiquities Office and Beijing University’s Phoenix Hill Survey Team, in the “Education” phase of the development cycle in creating a museum-quality virtual Phoenix Hill.

ENDNOTES

[1] Moule, A. C. Arthur Christopher 1873-1957. Quinsai; with other notes on Marco Polo. Cambridge, 1958 (first published in 1957)
[2]周斌 zhoubin 浙江大学农业遥感与信息技术应用研究所 and his graduate student Xin Wang.
[3] Gernet, Jacques. Daily life in China, on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion, 1250-1276. Translated by H. M. Wright, Stanford, 1962
[4] [1]邵群 Shao Qun, Cultural Relics Department of Phoenix Hill, Dean of the Cultural Relics Department, interview, July 2004
[5] 3Dem is one of several excellent applications for visualization. It is available at http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/3dem/ ERDAS is another at  http://gis.leica-geosystems.com/ Finally, ArcView: http://www.esri.com/software/arcgis/arcview/
[6] Rectification is, of course, ongoing, but the Da Nei coordinates have remained stable through many cross-checks. These cross-checks test the rectification by walking projected routes and also testing the several software applications (ERDAS, 3Dem, etc.,) against each other.
[7] Coordinates for the "Da Nei" Central Palace Foundations
                                                Latitude                 Longitude             
North West Corner:             30.2269                 120.16192
Southwest Corner:               30.2251                 120.16195
Southeast Corner:                30.2251                 120.16285
Northeast Corner                 30.2269                 120.16285
[8]陆君 Lu Jun, Antiquities Clerk, Wu Hill, interview, July 2004
[9] Gernet, p. 84
[10] Gernet, p. 120
[11] Wood, Frances, Did Marco Polo Go to China? Westview Press, 1995
[12] Marco Polo, quoted in Gernet,  pp. 119-120
[13] VTP for “Visual Terrain Project” at http://vterrain.org/
[14] Ongoing efforts in this regard will be available at http://www.cpp.edu/~jcmanley
[15] Hills of Hangzhou and Phoenix Hill (in Chinese)